Our friend Jean-François Macaigne tells of the ups and downs of his trip in a canal barge on the Sâone, from Scey to Besançon : recollections and advice from a devotee of France's canals.
At Scey-sur-Saône, a three-cabin canal barge is waiting us. But there are only three of us: a couple of friends have pulled out at the last minute. The canal boat seems almost too big for us. The surface of the water is smooth, everything is calm. The next morning at dawn, just after the lock, we enter the St Albin tunnel, a magical place, shimmering with tints of orange. There then follows a water pathway between two stone walls. We pass by Rupt-sur-Saône, its castle and domed church, so typical of Franche-Comté. We tie up so that we can spend a little time strolling and walking through its steeply-sloping back streets.