

Here
comes a lock. We’ve got the knack of them now. We bring the boat
alongside at reduced speed with the bow angled closer to the bank than
the stern. One of the crew goes ashore with the first rope, passes it
round a bollard and throws the loose end back aboard to the crew-member
at the bow. Next, he catches the second rope, thrown from the stern
of the boat, which he then pulls towards the bank. He passes this second
rope around a bollard, too, and climbs back aboard, holding the loose
end. The ropes are flexible and we hold them without straining so that,
as the water-level in the lock falls, we can feed the slack of the ropes
little by little around the bollards. In this way, the boat is stabilized
alongside the lock-wall till the water-level falls as required and the
lock-gates open. The trick is to keep the boat alongside, just hugging
the wall. Thus, we avoid drifting to the middle of the lock-chamber,
where we would not only get in the way of other boats, but also risk
being swept away by the current when the lock-gates open. Once the gates
open, the ropes can easily be pulled aboard, and off we go again.

On
entering a lock-chamber in which the water-level is at its lowest, we
can’t jump onto the quayside, since it is too high above us. The
problem is easily solved by throwing the rope to the lock keeper or
someone else on the bank ; then we can carry out the same manoeuvre
described above. It is easily done by three people, and even by two
with a little practice. If the lock-gate is closed, then you have to
come alongside and wait nearby (there is usually a small landing-stage).
In this case, one person goes ashore, ready to catch the ropes once
the gates have opened and the boat has entered the lock. After the manoeuvre,
the ropes should be neatly coiled, ready for the next time.
Each
time is a theatre event : half-a-dozen passers-by watch the manoeuvre,
and we feel we owe them a good performance ! Not to mention our own
pleasure as we approach neatly alongside the bank in our spick-and-span
boat and tie up smoothly at our mooring.
The passers-by inundate us with questions : ‘ Is it really true
you don’t need a licence ? Is it easy? Where do you come from?
You look like real professionals! ’ No, don’t laugh! They
really do say that! Our modesty takes a knocking.
Talking of locks, between Ayguesvives and Montesquieu-Lauraguais we
go through the ‘Sanglier’ double lock, whose two stone-walled
chambers reach an impressive height. You feel tiny on the boat. In order
to get provisions, we make a short stop at Montgiscard near an old wash-house
guarded by a trio of wild geese. There we meet a Scottish yacht, from
Glasgow, on its way south to the Mediterranean. The Scottish couple
aboard help us bring our boat alongside and start up a conversation.
That’s another aspect of cruising : the people you meet along
the way are often enthusiasts who have captivating stories to tell about
their travels.