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We are cruising lazily along past Laredorte, where a few boats are moored close to a restaurant with a luxuriant vine arbour. Just after a large bend, the Argent-Double canal-bridge comes into view. Here, the towpath spans over eleven stone-built arches. Immediately afterwards, we get the impression we are flying, as the canal-bridge takes us over the Argent-Double, a small tributary of the River Aude.
We arrive at Homps, one of the main centres for inland water craft and waterway wine transport. Indeed, on the quayside there’s a little museum devoted to the subject (Local wines can be purchased there).
One last excursion : we don’t want to lose a single minute of this fantastic journey, so we allow ourselves one hour – and no longer !
History hasn’t always been kind to Homps : the town was destroyed during the Albigensian Crusade, then again during the Wars of Religion. In the 17th century it was, nevertheless, one of the main cargo ports on the canal where the renowned (and delicious) Minervois wine was barrelled and shipped. Around a street corner, beyond some railings, we get a glimpse of what, until 1792, was one of the command-posts of the Knights of Malta. Practically on the outskirts of the village stands a little chapel dating from the 12th century. Its solid walls are built of large stone blocks and it is surrounded by a peaceful cemetery planted with tall, green yews. We can see from the street that the chapel-door is very old and has a padlock-shaped coat-of-arms above it. However, at the moment the door is closed ; we are left to imagine the treasures hidden inside.
It’s back to the boat for the last leg of our cruise, which we have to complete before lock closing-time. At the Homps lock, we have to wait 35 minutes while an English couple manage to pilot their cumbersome boat through the chamber. We go ashore to watch the manoeuvres which are so jerky and erratic that the boat bumps into the others tied up nearby. I venture to ask the ‘captain’ whether he needs any help and if it’s his first time piloting. ‘Not exactly’ , he answers, somewhat annoyed. Eventually, everyone present is dumbfounded as the boat races out of the lock at top speed, with the man’s young son at the helm, making waves which strike the hulls of our boats and set them bobbing on the water.
Fortunately, that kind of behaviour is very rare and raises a smile from all those who sail the calm waters of the canals.
We arrive at Argens just in time and tie up obediently at the Locaboat base between two ‘Flying Bridge’ pénichettes. These are deluxe vessels with the helm on the top deck and cabins of varnished wood. A brief visit to the village – now that we have a little time to spare. Perched on the hill, stands the ancient walled town, which was rebuilt after being captured by Simon de Montfort in the 14th century. The village, which clusters around the old church, is surrounded by vineyards and, from the higher slopes, we glimpse the River Aude meandering in the valley below. As the golden rays of the setting sun light up the house-fronts, we stroll through the few streets of the peaceful village ; then we go back aboard to tidy up and pack our cases for tomorrow. The atmosphere is melancholy – we’ve got that ‘end of the holidays’ feeling.
So, this was our trip : a leisurely cruise on a historic monument, punctuated by a few quirky locks. Following the waterways and the trail of history, we have been taken back in time to 17th century France. We have had the rewarding experience of meeting a number of interesting people. The Scots from Glasgow, the Dutch from Loosdrecht, the Germans who live in Maastricht, the Italians from Ancona – it’s as if the whole of Europe had decided to get together on the Canal du Midi !
At the Locaboat base, Sabine, one of the hostesses, tells us that the flags on the reception-desk are her pride and joy. They have all been given to her by vacation sailors enthralled with their cruises : presented in a gesture of thanks for the timeless moments spent on the canal.
It’s strange coming back : a good half-dozen different languages can be heard ; we switch our mobile phones back on ; we drive back the way to work and to school, back to the daily grind.
Sabine told me the story of an elderly couple. The husband is confined to a wheelchair, but they wouldn’t miss their annual few days’ cruise on a pénichette for anything in the world. They know the Canal du Midi better than anyone, can handle a boat better than many professional sailors and are faithful customers, year in, year out. So much so, that a few years ago, having no news or booking from the couple, the staff all got worried. It turned out that a last-minute hitch had made them skip their favourite holidays.
That’s what waterway cruisers are like – like family : a supportive and considerate community.
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Text & photos
JF Macaigne