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The propeller is spinning slowly. We are gliding ahead almost noiselessly on a mirror of green curtained by hundred-year-old plane-trees. The only perceptible sounds on this late summer afternoon are the lulling of the wake and its gentle lapping of the fresh young grass along the banks. Ducks swim aside the advancing bow, then chum us along part of the way, craving the gift of a crust of bread. We are aboard the ‘Saint-Sernin’, a 1260R Locaboat ‘Pénichette’ (cruising-barge), enjoying licence-free, user-friendly piloting – easy as child’s play ! Well, in a manner of speaking, for you do, nevertheless, have to be attentive and man the chromed-steel helm.
On board we enjoy 5-star comfort : a width of 3.85m (more than 12 1⁄2 ft.) and a Dutch-style bow which parts the water as gently as a young girl’s hand.
There are six of us : 4 adults and 2 children old enough to have their own cabin (with bunk-beds – it’s more fun !). There are wash-hand basins in each cabin, two showers, and a spacious square saloon. All the fittings are of wood and the little curtains which are pale-blue, green and orange add a sunny touch to our world afloat.


It all began the day before yesterday : we took charge of our boat at the Negra Locaboat base (about 30 km/48miles south of Toulouse) - first stop of the 19th century postal barge (Barque des Postes) which ran between Toulouse and Agde - and, as soon as the friendly and helpful staff, Myriam and Roland, had guided us through the formalities, we headed off towards Toulouse. Visiting Toulouse is a must. No-one should miss the ‘ville rose’ , renowned for its pink-stoned buildings and celebrated in song by the French artist, Claude Nougaro.
However, we make only a brief stop here, since we have numerous locks to pass through on the way to our final destination Argens, near Narbonne.
Toulouse is beautiful, warm and welcoming (except for the River Port Manager, who literally threw us out !). The narrow streets of the old town are peopled by ancient walls, the legacy of history, but I’ll spare you a long-winded account and just invite you to view our photos – they speak for themselves : it’s a sunny afternoon and the tourist slows to the pace of a leisurely stroll among the half-timbered buildings with their flower-laden balconies and into the not-to-be-missed St. Etienne cathedral and St. Sernin Basilica, St Sernin being the founder of Christianity in Toulouse and the patron saint of our boat.
We return to the boat after nightfall, having dined in the old town in the sanctuary of the ancient walls, Rue du Taur. We saunter back through the streets towards the canal, then, finding our barge where we left it at its peaceful mooring, we return aboard.

Text & photos
JF Macaigne
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