The propeller
is spinning slowly. We are gliding ahead almost noiselessly on a mirror
of green curtained by hundred-year-old plane-trees. The only perceptible
sounds on this late summer afternoon are the lulling of the wake and
its gentle lapping of the fresh young grass along the banks. Ducks swim
aside the advancing bow, then chum us along part of the way, craving
the gift of a crust of bread. We are aboard the ‘Saint-Sernin’,
a 1260R Locaboat ‘Pénichette’
(cruising-barge), enjoying licence-free, user-friendly piloting –
easy as child’s play ! Well, in a manner of speaking, for you
do, nevertheless, have to be attentive and man the chromed-steel helm.
On board we enjoy 5-star comfort : a width of 3.85m (more than 12 1⁄2
ft.) and a Dutch-style bow which parts the water as gently as a young
girl’s hand.
There are six of us : 4 adults and 2 children old enough to have their
own cabin (with bunk-beds – it’s more fun !). There
are wash-hand basins in each cabin, two showers, and a spacious square
saloon. All the fittings are of wood and the little curtains which are
pale-blue, green and orange add a sunny touch to our world afloat.
It all
began the day before yesterday : we took charge of our boat at the Negra
Locaboat base (about 30
km/48miles south of Toulouse) - first stop of the 19th century postal
barge (Barque des Postes) which ran between Toulouse and Agde - and,
as soon as the friendly and helpful staff, Myriam and Roland, had guided
us through the formalities, we headed off towards Toulouse. Visiting
Toulouse is a must. No-one should miss the ‘ville
rose’ , renowned for its pink-stoned buildings and celebrated
in song by the French artist, Claude Nougaro.
However, we make only a brief stop here, since we have numerous locks
to pass through on the way to our final destination Argens, near Narbonne.
Toulouse is beautiful, warm and welcoming (except for the River Port
Manager, who literally threw us out !). The narrow streets of the old
town are peopled by ancient walls, the legacy of history, but I’ll
spare you a long-winded account and just invite you to
view our photos
– they speak for themselves : it’s a sunny afternoon and
the tourist slows to the pace of a leisurely stroll among the half-timbered
buildings with their flower-laden balconies and into the not-to-be-missed
St. Etienne cathedral and St. Sernin Basilica, St Sernin being the founder
of Christianity in Toulouse and the patron saint of our boat.
We return to the boat after nightfall, having dined in the old town
in the sanctuary of the ancient walls, Rue du Taur. We saunter back
through the streets towards the canal, then, finding our barge where
we left it at its peaceful mooring, we return aboard.