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 The
next morning, we head back along the canal between the ponds. There’s
an offshore wind, dark grey clouds hedgehop above the waves and we advance
carefully. A few seagulls hang in the air, screeching in an atmosphere
of an approaching storm, and a flock of pink flamingos pretend not to
be there with their heads between their feathers.
Three drops fall, but that’s all. So many special
effects for so little, it’s enough to put you right off disaster
films…
We leave Maguelonne
Abbey among the vines and jet up towards Frontignan, where a bridge lifts
just three times a day to let boats pass: we aim to be there for the 1.30pm
passage, the morning one is much too early and the later one (at 4pm)
would make us late for Sète.
We arrive a good 20
minutes before schedule and see that the famous bridge, undergoing some
work, is in the high position, and that a simple red and white chain bars
the way. No question of missing the ceremony, so we wander a mere dozen
metres or so into town, almost never letting the boat out of our sight.
Without any fuss, a worker lowers the chain right on time and we pass
under the obstacle without meeting any opposition. To reward us for this
feat, we treat ourselves to a Pantagruelian lunch, and set off with full
stomachs for the Etang de Thau, just a few kilometres away.
It must be said that the region offers a variety of unforgettable delights
for food lovers! Bouzigues oysters with stuffed squid, fruit and vegetables
from the land of sunshine, little pâtés, fine pork meats
and goat’s cheese, not forgetting the local wines… it would
seem that everything is done deliberately to keep you at the table! If
you haven’t tried a Zézette de Sète (biscuit made
from rosé wine) with a glass of muscat, you haven’t experienced
real life in the South!
 
With a few turns of the propeller, we arrive at the
entrance to Etang de Thau. Sète looms up in front of us on the
hill, but to get there we have to sail past the oyster farms and the boat
rolls a bit. In just twenty minutes, we pass between the two red and green
markers at the entrance of the town, and moor in front of the two mobile
bridges that prevent boats with draughts over 2.5m from entering.
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